By Joseph L. Garcia, Senior Reporter
BLASÉ Manileños will tell you that the traffic in Tagaytay made it so over, but it’s their loss as the food at the volcano’s ridge still makes the trip worth it.
The Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival opened on July 12 with a Grand Tasting at Anya Resort. According to one of its organizers, chef Rhea Sycip of The Fatted Calf (which she heads with her husband Jayjay), they were expecting a maximum of 50 guests — the figure ballooned to 185 by the end of the evening, and they had to turn some guests away.
There were about 13 establishments present, each with their own menus, and they were dropping chef’s names on the menu as a crowd draw.
Ms. Sycip’s name was there, offering up baked delights from her Flour Pot Bistro & Bakery. Prominent restaurateurs Robby Goco and Happy Ongpauco-Tiu had menus for Elaia by Cyma and Tsokolateria and Pamana (Mr. Goco’s Greek Fisherman Stew was such a draw that they ran out of bowls; we’ve never had anything like Ms. Ongapauco Tiu’s savory offerings, mixed with chocolate.)
Anya Resort was hosting, so they had their own representation with their executive chef Chris Leaning, and neighbor Taal Vista’s Jayme Natividad drew a long line with the Beef Shank Ravioli. Local talent Tristan Bayani’s Ribchon’s lechon ribs (some of it in a sour sinigang broth; some served straight off the grill) was a sleeper hit: we noted his booth was the one that ran out of food first (and had some of the longest lines).
Asked how they chose the participants, Ms. Sycip said, “It was easier with some,” because they were friends, but, “Then we had to reach out of course to the local talents of Tagaytay. We also wanted to include them to showcase also what they can do.”
INSPIRATIONShe and her friends got the idea for the Tagaytay Food and Wine Festival after being invited to participate in Manila and Davao last year. With the support of Senator Loren Legarda, they kicked off this one, Tagaytay’s first.
Said in a speech delivered by Mr. Sycip on behalf of Ms. Legarda: “This festival reminds us of the importance of supporting local farmers and producers who work tirelessly to bring these exceptional ingredients to our tables.
“By choosing to cook with and savor these local treasures, we sustain our communities, preserve our traditions, and nurture our future,” the speech continued. Ms. Legarda also introduced Senate Bill No. 244, the Culinary Heritage Act, which aims to preserve and promote traditional culinary practices.
“We’re seeing an influx of chefs opening (restaurants),” said Ms. Sycip. Mr. Goco is opening outlets in Tagaytay, and so is celebrity chef Sau del Rosario. “It’s good because that means we will be able to introduce new concepts, new chefs… there is a renewed interest here,” she said. “More chefs from Manila are going up (to Tagaytay). But when [diners] go up, and go to the restaurants of these chefs, it’s not the same food. Mas fresh iyong approach (there is a fresher approach).”
THE TRAFFICTagaytay’s charm was once in its cool windy weather (and okay, the beef and bone marrow soup known as bulalo: it will get its own festival in September with a Creative Bulalo Challenge, according to Ms. Sycip), but times have changed. Ms. Sycip points out that once where there were trees and scenery, there are now outlets. Still: “I guess the charm of Tagaytay is in the drive up, regardless of where you will pass,” she said. That, and, “I would like to still believe that it’s the people who make the difference. In general, restaurants in Tagaytay, the service of the people is warm and friendly.”
While BusinessWorld experienced almost zero traffic going up to Tagaytay on July 12 (Quezon City to Tagaytay in about 1.5 hours), we’ve also experienced being No. 12 in a line of cars just to enter a restaurant. Ms. Sycip says, “The traffic is here and it’s affecting us, the businesses. But we know that once all the improvements are done, then it will be the best for all the restaurants.”
Tagaytay is a small playground, once dominated by Antonio’s by chef Tony Boy Escalante (the first restaurant in the country to make the Asia’s 50 Best List of restaurants in 2015). There are lots of new players, but all together in one room, none of them were competitors, but collaborators. “The traffic made us all closer,” Ms. Sycip said with laughter.
It seems that the dining dynamics in Tagaytay contribute to this synergy. According to Ms. Sycip, the average stay in Tagaytay only lasts overnight. This means breakfast or lunch at a hotel, and then dinner somewhere else. “That extended to everyone else. It’s good because the chefs are young. They’re more open to collaborate. That’s why we became friends. It’s very good for the city.”
Meanwhile, plans are underway already for next year’s edition: “With what we saw tonight, yes,” said Ms. Sycip.
The festival does not end on July 12. On July 20, 4 p.m., Mr. Del Rosario is presenting a sunset session at Luxe at 180 Degrees by Chef Sau del Rosario. For a fee of P4,500 per person, the view sets the stage for a Truffle and Caviar dinner by chefs Oliver Buenviaje, John Buenaventura, and Mr. Del Rosario himself.
The back-to-back weekends will close with the Heritage Buffet on July 21 at 11:30 a.m. at the Veranda Restaurant of Taal Vista Hotel. For P1,995, this lunch buffet features the combined talents of chef Jayme Natividad of Taal Vista Hotel and Mr. and Mrs. Sycip of The Fatted Calf. Together, they’ll create a fusion of heritage dishes, showcasing the best of Filipino cuisine.
